How to Paint Spectral Green Nighthaunt Miniatures
How to Paint Spectral Green Nighthaunt Miniatures
This guide shows how to paint ghostly green Nighthaunt miniatures using Contrast paints in a way that is quick to apply and easy to replicate across an army.
The first army I collected for Age of Sigmar was the Nighthaunt, and over time I have built up quite a large force painted in a ghostly white scheme. More recently, I wanted to develop an alternative approach using Contrast paints, and the Emerald Host provided the perfect opportunity.
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This scheme is inspired by the baleful green glow of Dolorum, and aims to create a rich, spectral effect while still remaining practical for painting larger numbers of miniatures.
After first testing the colours on the Thorns of the Briar Queen, I refined the approach further and applied it here to a Glaivewraith Stalker.
This guide shows how to paint ghostly green Nighthaunt miniatures using Contrast paints in a way that is quick to apply and easy to replicate across an army.
The first army I collected for Age of Sigmar was the Nighthaunt, and over time I have built up quite a large force painted in a ghostly white scheme. More recently, I wanted to develop an alternative approach using Contrast paints, and the Emerald Host provided the perfect opportunity.
New to painting Warhammer Miniatures → Start here: Warhammer Painting Made Simple
For other miniature painting guides → Faction Painting Hubs
This scheme is inspired by the baleful green glow of Dolorum, and aims to create a rich, spectral effect while still remaining practical for painting larger numbers of miniatures.
After first testing the colours on the Thorns of the Briar Queen, I refined the approach further and applied it here to a Glaivewraith Stalker.
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Paints Used
- Ghoul Grey Spray (Amazon Affiliate Link)
- Striking Scorpion Green
- Dark Angel Green
- Wyldwood
- Contrast Medium
- Lahmian Medium
- Poxwalker
- Nuln Oil
- Agrax Earthshade
- Iron Hands Steel
- Runelord Brass
- Ironbreaker
- Brass Scorpion
- Warboss Green
- Skarsnik Green
- Nurgling Green
- Deepkin Flesh
- Gorthor Brown
- Karak Stone
- Screaming Skull
- Abaddon Black
Basing materials
- Stirland Mud
- Army Painter Static Grass (Amazon Associate)
- Valhallan Blizzard
- Ghoul Grey Spray (Amazon Affiliate Link)
- Striking Scorpion Green
- Dark Angel Green
- Wyldwood
- Contrast Medium
- Lahmian Medium
- Poxwalker
- Nuln Oil
- Agrax Earthshade
- Iron Hands Steel
- Runelord Brass
- Ironbreaker
- Brass Scorpion
- Warboss Green
- Skarsnik Green
- Nurgling Green
- Deepkin Flesh
- Gorthor Brown
- Karak Stone
- Screaming Skull
- Abaddon Black
Basing materials
- Stirland Mud
- Army Painter Static Grass (Amazon Associate)
- Valhallan Blizzard
Base Process
The miniature was primed with Ghoul Grey Spray (or you could use Grey Seer), which provides a smooth and consistent base for Contrast paints. When working with this type of paint, surface quality is important, so taking the time to achieve a clean undercoat helps a great deal.
The model was divided into clear sections before painting began. These included lower robes, upper robes, ghostly flesh, metals and wood. Working in this way helps keep the scheme controlled and prevents colours from mixing unintentionally.
The miniature was primed with Ghoul Grey Spray (or you could use Grey Seer), which provides a smooth and consistent base for Contrast paints. When working with this type of paint, surface quality is important, so taking the time to achieve a clean undercoat helps a great deal.
The model was divided into clear sections before painting began. These included lower robes, upper robes, ghostly flesh, metals and wood. Working in this way helps keep the scheme controlled and prevents colours from mixing unintentionally.
Base Colours
The lower robes were painted using a mix of Striking Scorpion Green, Lahmian Medium and Contrast Medium. This creates the bright spectral glow that forms the foundation of the scheme.
The upper robes were painted with Dark Angel Green mixed with Lahmian Medium. This stage requires a little more care, as Contrast paints can produce uneven finishes. Any areas that appear patchy can be corrected using thin glazes before moving on.
Once the colour was even, a further darkening layer was applied using a mix of Black Templar and Lahmian Medium to deepen the upper sections.
Wooden areas were painted using Wyldwood, while metal areas were basecoated with Iron Hands Steel. Decorative elements such as sword hilts were painted using Runelord Brass.
Finally, the ghostly flesh was tidied using Grey Seer to ensure a clean base before shading.
The lower robes were painted using a mix of Striking Scorpion Green, Lahmian Medium and Contrast Medium. This creates the bright spectral glow that forms the foundation of the scheme.
The upper robes were painted with Dark Angel Green mixed with Lahmian Medium. This stage requires a little more care, as Contrast paints can produce uneven finishes. Any areas that appear patchy can be corrected using thin glazes before moving on.
Once the colour was even, a further darkening layer was applied using a mix of Black Templar and Lahmian Medium to deepen the upper sections.
Wooden areas were painted using Wyldwood, while metal areas were basecoated with Iron Hands Steel. Decorative elements such as sword hilts were painted using Runelord Brass.
Finally, the ghostly flesh was tidied using Grey Seer to ensure a clean base before shading.
Applying Shades
All shades were applied in a single stage, working carefully across the different sections of the model.
The ghostly flesh was shaded with Poxwalker. The same colour was also used on the lower robes, with some of the paint removed from the lowest areas using a damp brush. This creates a simple gradient that will be enhanced later.
The upper robes and metal areas were shaded with Nuln Oil, while Agrax Earthshade was applied to the metal and wood to add depth and warmth.
Applying these shades together allows them to blend slightly on the model, softening the transitions and helping to create a more natural spectral effect.
The miniature was then left to dry fully before highlighting.
All shades were applied in a single stage, working carefully across the different sections of the model.
The ghostly flesh was shaded with Poxwalker. The same colour was also used on the lower robes, with some of the paint removed from the lowest areas using a damp brush. This creates a simple gradient that will be enhanced later.
The upper robes and metal areas were shaded with Nuln Oil, while Agrax Earthshade was applied to the metal and wood to add depth and warmth.
Applying these shades together allows them to blend slightly on the model, softening the transitions and helping to create a more natural spectral effect.
The miniature was then left to dry fully before highlighting.
Highlighting the Miniature
The highlighting stage brings the model back to life by increasing brightness and contrast.
The upper robes were highlighted using Warboss Green, followed by finer highlights of Skarsnik Green.
The lower robes were highlighted with Nurgling Green. This began with edge highlights, followed by thin glazes to further brighten the lower areas. Deepkin Flesh was then used to pick out the brightest points.
The metal areas were highlighted with Ironbreaker, while the brass elements were highlighted with Brass Scorpion.
Wood was highlighted with Gorthor Brown, keeping the effect subtle.
The highlighting stage brings the model back to life by increasing brightness and contrast.
The upper robes were highlighted using Warboss Green, followed by finer highlights of Skarsnik Green.
The lower robes were highlighted with Nurgling Green. This began with edge highlights, followed by thin glazes to further brighten the lower areas. Deepkin Flesh was then used to pick out the brightest points.
The metal areas were highlighted with Ironbreaker, while the brass elements were highlighted with Brass Scorpion.
Wood was highlighted with Gorthor Brown, keeping the effect subtle.
Basing
The base was built using Stirland Mud to create texture. Once dry, it was drybrushed with Karak Stone and Screaming Skull to bring out the detail.
The rim was painted Abaddon Black to keep the finish clean.
Static grass was added in small amounts to break up the base. using PVA glue.
To finish, I applied Valhallan Blizzard in small patches, to give the impression of a spring snow melting away.
The base was built using Stirland Mud to create texture. Once dry, it was drybrushed with Karak Stone and Screaming Skull to bring out the detail.
The rim was painted Abaddon Black to keep the finish clean.
Static grass was added in small amounts to break up the base. using PVA glue.
To finish, I applied Valhallan Blizzard in small patches, to give the impression of a spring snow melting away.
Key Points
- Contrast paints work best over a smooth, controlled base
- Continuous brushstrokes are key to applying contrast paints.
- Dividing the model into sections helps maintain control
- Blended shades create softer and more natural transitions
- Highlights are essential to restore brightness after shading
- Contrast paints work best over a smooth, controlled base
- Continuous brushstrokes are key to applying contrast paints.
- Dividing the model into sections helps maintain control
- Blended shades create softer and more natural transitions
- Highlights are essential to restore brightness after shading
Related Guides
- Ghostly White Nighthaunts
- Skeletons, Skulls and Bone
- Green Flames
- How to Paint Nighthaunt - Complete Guide
This guide is part of my Miniature Painting Guides collection.
Discussion
How do you approach using Contrast paints on army projects?
Do you prefer a fast method, or do you refine each model further after the initial stages?
Let me know in the comments. I would be interested to hear what has worked for you.
Happy hobbying!
If you are enjoying the content, feel free to follow the blog. It really helps and keeps you updated with new tutorials.
Return to the home page.
How do you approach using Contrast paints on army projects?
Do you prefer a fast method, or do you refine each model further after the initial stages?
Let me know in the comments. I would be interested to hear what has worked for you.
Happy hobbying!
If you are enjoying the content, feel free to follow the blog. It really helps and keeps you updated with new tutorials.
Return to the home page.
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