How to Paint Claws of Karanak
How to Paint Khorne Warriors on Miniatures – Claws of Karanak Warband Guide
In this guide, I will show you how to paint Khorne Warriors from the Claws of Karanak warband, focusing on rich red armour and cohesive army colours. The aim is to tie these models into an existing Khorne force, combining tones from Flesh Hounds and Blood Warriors.New to painting Warhammer Miniatures → Start here: Warhammer Painting Made Simple
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My Claws of Karanak
New to painting Warhammer Miniatures → Start here: Warhammer Painting Made Simple
For other miniature painting guides → Faction Painting Hubs
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| My Claws of Karanak |
Paints used:
- Rakarth Flesh
- Khorne Red
- Rhinox Hide
- Leadbelcher
- Brass Scorpion
- Abaddon Black
- Steel Legion Drab
- Dryad Bark
- Mournfang Brown
- Zandri Dust
- Reikland Fleshshade
- Nuln Oil
- Agrax Earthshade
- Druchii Violet
- Athonian Camoshade
- Berserker Bloodshade
- Warpfiend Grey
- Administratum Grey
- Cadian Fleshtone
- Evil Sunz Scarlet
- Wild Rider Red
- Ironbreaker
- Stormhost Silver
- Runelord Brass
- Eshin Grey
- Karak Stone
- Ushabti Bone
- Screaming Skull
- Kislev Flesh
- Barak‑Var Burgundy
- Pink Horror
- Mechanicus Standard Grey
- Dawnstone
- Karak Stone
- Screaming Skull
- Blood for the Blood God
- Sand
- PVA glue
- Pieces of Slate
- Gamer Grass Alien Void tufts
Batch painting approach
These miniatures were painted using a batch method. I first applied all of the basecoats across the models, then worked through all of the washes and shades, and finally completed the highlighting and basing. This approach helps maintain consistency and makes the process more efficient when working on multiple models.
Painting Method
Priming
The miniatures were primed with Matt Black spray, providing a solid base for the darker tones used throughout the scheme.
Priming
The miniatures were primed with Matt Black spray, providing a solid base for the darker tones used throughout the scheme.
Painting the Flesh
The flesh was painted first, starting with a basecoat of Rakarth Flesh. Once this had fully dried, it was washed with Reikland Fleshshade to build depth and definition. At this stage the flesh was left as it was, with highlights added later once the rest of the miniature had been blocked in.
The flesh was painted first, starting with a basecoat of Rakarth Flesh. Once this had fully dried, it was washed with Reikland Fleshshade to build depth and definition. At this stage the flesh was left as it was, with highlights added later once the rest of the miniature had been blocked in.
Basecoats
At the basecoat stage, the aim was simply to establish the main colour placement across the models. The armour, leather cloaks, and Fleshhound frills were painted with Khorne Red, while the fur on the cloaks was picked out using Rhinox Hide. The metallic areas such as blades and chains were basecoated with Leadbelcher, and the brass trim and helmets were painted with Brass Scorpion.
The trousers were painted Abaddon Black, while the various bindings on the arms and weapons were painted using Steel Legion Drab and Mournfang Brown. The weapon hafts were given a basecoat of Dryad Bark, and finally bones, fangs, and skulls were painted with Zandri Dust.
At the basecoat stage, the aim was simply to establish the main colour placement across the models. The armour, leather cloaks, and Fleshhound frills were painted with Khorne Red, while the fur on the cloaks was picked out using Rhinox Hide. The metallic areas such as blades and chains were basecoated with Leadbelcher, and the brass trim and helmets were painted with Brass Scorpion.
The trousers were painted Abaddon Black, while the various bindings on the arms and weapons were painted using Steel Legion Drab and Mournfang Brown. The weapon hafts were given a basecoat of Dryad Bark, and finally bones, fangs, and skulls were painted with Zandri Dust.
Washes and Shades
All of the washes were applied in a single stage, working on one model at a time. Nuln Oil was applied across the armour, cloaks, blades, chains, trousers, and weapon hafts, helping to deepen the shadows and unify the surfaces.
Agrax Earthshade was then used on the brass trim, bindings, and bone details, adding warmth and depth to those areas. The fur was shaded separately with Druchii Violet, which adds a slightly unnatural tone that works well with Khorne models.
Once applied, the washes were left overnight to dry fully before moving on to the next stage.
All of the washes were applied in a single stage, working on one model at a time. Nuln Oil was applied across the armour, cloaks, blades, chains, trousers, and weapon hafts, helping to deepen the shadows and unify the surfaces.
Agrax Earthshade was then used on the brass trim, bindings, and bone details, adding warmth and depth to those areas. The fur was shaded separately with Druchii Violet, which adds a slightly unnatural tone that works well with Khorne models.
Once applied, the washes were left overnight to dry fully before moving on to the next stage.
Highlighting
At this point the models look solid, but slightly dark. The highlighting stage is where the scheme really comes together, adding contrast and variation.
The fur was carefully drybrushed first with Warpfiend Grey and then with a lighter mix of Warpfiend Grey and Administratum Grey. The second pass was applied more sparingly to avoid overpowering the base colour.
The red leather cloaks were treated differently to the armour. I glazed thinned Khorne Red over the raised areas to re-establish the colour, and then gradually introduced Cadian Fleshtone into the mix to build up the highlights. This creates a softer, more organic, which I wanted to represent the hide of a fleshhound.
For the red armour, I wanted a brighter, more defined finish. I began by re-establishing Khorne Red on the panels, leaving the recess shading intact. I then used Evil Sunz Scarlet as a glaze across roughly half of each panel to create a smooth transition. Finally, the edges were highlighted with Evil Sunz Scarlet and then Wild Rider Red.
The metal areas were highlighted with Ironbreaker, with the sharpest edges picked out using Stormhost Silver. The brass trim was highlighted using Runelord Brass to bring back some warmth and shine.
The bindings were given subtle highlights to avoid drawing too much attention, while the trousers were lightened slightly with a mix of Abaddon Black and Eshin Grey.
Bone details were built up in stages, starting with Karak Stone, then Ushabti Bone, and finally Screaming Skull for the brightest highlights.
The flesh was then revisited and highlighted with Kislev Flesh. On one of the models, I used Berserker Bloodshade in the recesses and over the veins to add additional depth and variation.
The Fleshhound frills were glazed with Druchii Violet and then highlighted with a mix of Barak-Var Burgundy and Pink Horror to give them a more vibrant finish.
At this point the models look solid, but slightly dark. The highlighting stage is where the scheme really comes together, adding contrast and variation.
The fur was carefully drybrushed first with Warpfiend Grey and then with a lighter mix of Warpfiend Grey and Administratum Grey. The second pass was applied more sparingly to avoid overpowering the base colour.
The red leather cloaks were treated differently to the armour. I glazed thinned Khorne Red over the raised areas to re-establish the colour, and then gradually introduced Cadian Fleshtone into the mix to build up the highlights. This creates a softer, more organic, which I wanted to represent the hide of a fleshhound.
For the red armour, I wanted a brighter, more defined finish. I began by re-establishing Khorne Red on the panels, leaving the recess shading intact. I then used Evil Sunz Scarlet as a glaze across roughly half of each panel to create a smooth transition. Finally, the edges were highlighted with Evil Sunz Scarlet and then Wild Rider Red.
The metal areas were highlighted with Ironbreaker, with the sharpest edges picked out using Stormhost Silver. The brass trim was highlighted using Runelord Brass to bring back some warmth and shine.
The bindings were given subtle highlights to avoid drawing too much attention, while the trousers were lightened slightly with a mix of Abaddon Black and Eshin Grey.
Bone details were built up in stages, starting with Karak Stone, then Ushabti Bone, and finally Screaming Skull for the brightest highlights.
The flesh was then revisited and highlighted with Kislev Flesh. On one of the models, I used Berserker Bloodshade in the recesses and over the veins to add additional depth and variation.
The Fleshhound frills were glazed with Druchii Violet and then highlighted with a mix of Barak-Var Burgundy and Pink Horror to give them a more vibrant finish.
Basing
The bases were built up by first gluing small pieces of slate into place, followed by sand to fill the remaining areas. Once dry, everything was painted black to create a consistent starting point.
The base was then drybrushed with Mechanicus Standard Grey and Dawnstone to establish the main texture. After this, a wash of Athonian Camoshade was applied to add depth.
Once the wash had dried, the rocks were further highlighted with Dawnstone and Administratum Grey, while the sand was highlighted using Karak Stone and Screaming Skull.
To add additional detail, patches of the base were painted with Zandri Dust and then coated with Blood for the Blood God. Finally, tufts of Gamer Grass Alien Void were added for addition texture and interest.
My Packlord
My Brutalisers
My Blood Whelps
Key Points
The bases were built up by first gluing small pieces of slate into place, followed by sand to fill the remaining areas. Once dry, everything was painted black to create a consistent starting point.
The base was then drybrushed with Mechanicus Standard Grey and Dawnstone to establish the main texture. After this, a wash of Athonian Camoshade was applied to add depth.
Once the wash had dried, the rocks were further highlighted with Dawnstone and Administratum Grey, while the sand was highlighted using Karak Stone and Screaming Skull.
To add additional detail, patches of the base were painted with Zandri Dust and then coated with Blood for the Blood God. Finally, tufts of Gamer Grass Alien Void were added for addition texture and interest.
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| My Packlord |
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| My Brutalisers |
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| My Blood Whelps |
Key Points
This scheme works because the different textures on the miniature are treated in slightly different ways, while still using a consistent palette of colours. The combination of washes and controlled highlights helps build depth without making the models overly complex. Using a batch painting approach also helps keep the process efficient and ensures the warband remains visually cohesive.
This scheme works because the different textures on the miniature are treated in slightly different ways, while still using a consistent palette of colours. The combination of washes and controlled highlights helps build depth without making the models overly complex. Using a batch painting approach also helps keep the process efficient and ensures the warband remains visually cohesive.
Related Guides
This guide is part of my Miniature Painting Guides collection.
This guide is part of my Miniature Painting Guides collection.
Discussion
How do you approach painting Khorne or Chaos forces?
Do you prefer a consistent colour scheme across a unit, or more variation between individual models?
Let me know in the comments, I’d be interested to hear what’s worked for you.
Happy hobbying!
If you’re enjoying the content, feel free to follow the blog, it really helps and keeps you updated with new tutorials.
Return to my home page.
How do you approach painting Khorne or Chaos forces?
Do you prefer a consistent colour scheme across a unit, or more variation between individual models?
Let me know in the comments, I’d be interested to hear what’s worked for you.
Happy hobbying!
If you’re enjoying the content, feel free to follow the blog, it really helps and keeps you updated with new tutorials.
Return to my home page.
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