How to Paint Flaming Swords on Miniatures

Simple Heat Effect with Glazing

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Flaming or superheated weapons are a great way to add visual interest to a miniature.

In this guide, I’ll be using a Bloodletter of Khorne as an example, but this method works equally well on any miniature with a blade or weapon.

This approach creates a glowing, heat-based effect, building a transition from darker reds at the base of the blade through to bright yellows at the tip, simulating the heat of a weapon fresh from the forge or infused with daemonic energy.

This technique relies on applying multiple thin layers (glazes). Take your time and allow each layer to fully dry before applying the next, this is what creates the smooth transitions.

Brushes and tools used

Brushes used:

• Raphael 8404 Size 1 (Amazon affiliate link)
• Winsor & Newton Series 7 Size 0 (Amazon affiliate link)

The Citadel synthetic brushes are reliable and inexpensive, making them ideal for basecoating and shading. For highlights and fine detail, I switch to higher-quality brushes for better control.

Brush care:

• Masters Brush Cleaner (Amazon affiliate link)

Once I’ve finished painting, I always clean my brushes with this to keep them in good co

Paints Used

• Matt Black Spray (Amazon Affiliate link)
• Khorne Red
• Mephiston Red
• Evil Suns Scarlet
• Wild Rider Red
• Trollslayer Orange
• Fire Dragon Bright
• Yriel Yellow
• Blood Angels Red 
• Iyaden Yellow
• Lahmian Medium

Creating the Flaming Blade Effect

1.  Khorne Red

Start by priming the blade with Matt Black. Once dry, apply a basecoat of Khorne Red across the entire blade.

From this point on, the effect is built using thin glazes, with each colour applied over a progressively smaller area of the blade as you move towards the tip.

2. Mephiston Red

Thin Mephiston Red to a glaze consistency.

Apply this from around halfway along the blade, pulling the paint towards the tip. This begins to create the transition between the darker base and the brighter upper section.

3. Evil Sunz Scarlet

Apply thinned Evil Sunz Scarlet to roughly the top third of the blade, again drawing the paint towards the tip.

At this stage, you should start to see a smooth transition from deep red at the base to a brighter red towards the tip.

4. Wild Rider Red

Apply Wild Rider Red to the upper quarter of the blade, focusing on the tip.

A small teardrop or diamond shape can be used here to define the hottest part of the blade. You can also pick out the tips of any serrations to enhance the effect.

5. Trollslayer Orange

Thin Trollslayer Orange to a glaze consistency and apply it as a small diamond shape at the tip of the blade, focusing the brightest colour where the heat is most intense.

You can use the tip of the blade to define the edges of this shape. A small amount can also be applied sparingly along the central ridge and to the sharpest edges or serrations.

At this stage, the blade should clearly transition from dark red through to a bright orange at the tip, with the diamond acting as the focal point of the heat.

6. Fire Dragon Bright

Apply Fire Dragon Bright to a smaller area within the orange, tightening the highlight further toward the tip and key edges.

This begins to push the effect into a hotter, more intense range.

7. Yriel Yellow

Apply Yriel Yellow very sparingly to the extreme tip and the sharpest edges.

This represents the hottest point of the blade and should be used with restraint to avoid overpowering the transition.

8. Final highlight

Mix a small amount of White Scar into Yriel Yellow to create a slightly brighter, desaturated yellow.

Using a fine detail brush, apply this as a very fine edge highlight to the tip of the blade. This should be kept extremely controlled, focusing only on the sharpest point of the sword.

A couple of small dot highlights can also be added to the tips of the serrations to further emphasise the brightest points of heat.

This step should be used sparingly, as it represents the absolute hottest areas of the blade.

9. Bringing the colours together

To tie everything together, use glazes:

• Apply Blood Angels Red thinned with Lahmian Medium (red glaze) to the lower half of the blade
• While still wet, apply Iyanden Yellow thinned with Lahmian Medium (yellow glaze) to the upper half.

To make the glaze, I used around 5:1 Lahmian Medium to Contrast paint

Where the two colours meet, gently blend them together.

This softens transitions and reinforces the heat effect.

Key Points

• Work with thin layers, not thick paint. 
• Multiple thin layers is better than a single think layer.
• Always pull paint toward the tip to build intensity
• Reduce the area of each highlight step
• Let each layer dry fully before continuing
• The effect relies on smooth transitions rather than sharp lines

Variations

• For a hotter, more intense effect → increase the amount of yellow at the tip
• For a darker blade → allow more red to remain visible
• For magical weapons → swap colours (green, blue or purple instead of red/orange)

Related Guides

• Skeletons, Skulls and Bone
• Weather Beaten Armour
• Green Flames

This guide is part of my Miniature Painting Guides collection.

Discussion

How do you prefer to paint glowing or flaming weapons?

Do you go for a subtle heat effect, or something much brighter and more exaggerated?

Let me know in the comments, I’d be interested to hear what’s worked for you.

Happy hobbying!

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